Kaiseki master Masaki Hashimoto has plans to open a new restaurant at the Japanese Cultural Centre on Wynford Drive. He will alternate between the new spot and this long-standing jewel of a restaurant, so Japanese food aficionados will soon be able to enjoy his idiosyncratic, lovingly crafted dishes at two venues. Diners call a week in advance so Hashimoto can plan the eight-course ($150) dinner and have ingredients flown in from Japan. Throughout the evening, lucid flavours and contrasting textures combine to demonstrate the refinement of this self-conscious style. Cucumber ribbon wraps hamo (pike) garnished with a pearl of egg yolk and lily bulb petals. Seven more courses follow, featuring such treats as super-tender imported AAAA wagyu beef, grilled and served with a dipping powder of green tea and salt, presided over by a carved daikon crane. Reservations required.