New kid on the Baldwin block (in Bloom’s old space), Etsu offers good value for standard Japanese and Korean fare, the spicing toned down for local tastes. Co-owner Taylor Kim uses the glass box of a room as a gallery for his colourful large-scale photography and also waits tables with a worldly grace. The Japanese menu features straightforward sushi, lightweight tempura and a seafood soup packed with mussels, squid and shrimp in a sweet dashi broth. But it’s the Korean dishes that stand out. A whole Cornish hen stuffed with sticky rice, ginseng, jujube fruit and garlic is poached in broth. Decorated with scrambled egg and scallions, it’s the ultimate comfort food (call 24 hours ahead to order). Pa jun (a crêpe stuffed with green onions) is more prosaic; bulgogi is delectably tender but under-seasoned. A basic wine, beer and sake list keeps markups to a minimum.