Ematei offers Toronto’s widest range of authentic, traditional Japanese izakaya (small cooked dishes) in an authentically un-chic, kitschy room somewhere between a Queen Street pub and a Japanese neighbourhood joint. The friendly, casual yet occasionally sloppy service fits the mood; the many Japanese expats dining here complete the picture of an unpretentious local. The extensive menu and seasonal specials offer an intoxicating choice of izakaya standards, such as grilled miso-marinated black cod or kingfish, agedashi fried tofu and decent tempura. The list of Japanese favourites is long: chicken skin, chicken hearts and soft bones, fried chicken livers, grilled beef and beef tongue salad. All are well cooked—basic and unembellished. Yet the kitchen lapses when the food demands a finer hand, exemplified by a pleasant but dull grilled duck breast stuffed with spinach, and an expensive but pedestrian sashimi plate. Like many of its Japanese izakaya counterparts, the sashimi and sushi are fresh but uninspired; however, the lack of trendy, sweetly sauced North American sushi is refreshing. Like at most restaurants serving small dishes, it’s possible to eat like a student and come out with a moderately priced bill or indulge in a variety of dishes and end up with a hefty cheque at the end. Small plates $3.50–$10.