After 12 years in business, owner Andrew Milne-Allan is still a hands-on chef. On most evenings, his high-rise hair can be seen in the kitchen window while he rolls out fresh pasta or works the line during the heat of service. His passion and dedication explain why this trattoria has been a neighbourhood favourite since day one. An Italian rendition of mushrooms on toast, a square of grilled white polenta is topped with silky chanterelles and crisp pancetta; wafers of baked ricotta salata, however, amp the salinity level a notch too high. Pastas—all handmade—are among the city’s best. The ever-popular casunsei ampez­zano are stuffed with a sweet mixture of beets and ricotta, while a poppy seed butter sauce gives the dish a delicate snap, crackle and pop. Served with grilled oyster mushrooms and a shell bean ragoût, a juicy, char-grilled Cumbrae strip loin bests most steak house slabs. Desserts, such as the warm torta caprese, cater to chocoholics, though it’s hard to resist a plate of biscotti with a rich espresso. The Italo-centric wine list has big-ticket bottles from Tuscany and bargains from the south. Service is friendly and knowledgeable, though the kitchen slows down on busy nights. Mains $16–$33. 2150 Yonge St. (at Berwick Ave.), 416-488-5774. V a