A stone’s throw from Highway 427, Via Allegro rivals Sherway Gardens as the neighbourhood’s biggest draw. The world-class selection of scotch and grappa (950 and 250, respectively) is proudly displayed in trophy cases, and the Wine Spectator grand award–winning wine list is bigger than a phone book (there are some 5,500 choices, but expert staff will help with navigation). Chef Lino Collevecchio’s carnivorous menu is ambitiously large, appeasing regulars with favourites while also offering such tasty innovations as lamb’s brain ravioli. The decor, however, does not match such aspirations; with ornate chandeliers and bare wood tables, it’s like a roadhouse designed by Liberace. To start, mushroom soup is poured tableside into a bowl laid out with buttery clamshell mushrooms and a flaky vol-au-vent pastry shell stuffed with slivers of serrano ham; the gorgeous purée is deeply flavoured and has the luxurious texture of partially whipped cream. Huge entrée portions would best Falstaff himself: a perfectly cooked lobster half is perched on a mountain of al dente egg tagliarini bathed in a refined puttanesca sauce. In the Lamb Trinity, three cuts share one plate: a roasted double rib chop is crusted with hazelnuts and horseradish; pulled shank meat and pecans fill a savoury phyllo tartlet; and succulent ribs are glazed with a lamb jus. The decadance continues with elaborate takes on classic sweets; the chocolate bacio has a delicate crust, but the ganache filling is not fork-friendly. Service is amicable. Mains $16–$50.