With a name like Toba, assumptions lead to Japan. But this menu spins around the atlas. While the pastas are firmly planted in Italy, there’s a little Mexico and Morocco thrown in. The roasted eggplant soup is silken and rich, the flavour deep, garnished with a raft-like crostini floating in the creamy expanse. On this night, halibut fritters sparkle, thanks to a sweet and spicy Thai drizzle. In many restaurants, gnocchi starts to bore by the third bite, but Toba’s flawless potato parcels are nestled beside house-made Italian sausage in an addictive fontina and tomato sauce. Mains don’t disappoint: one might find a crispy-skinned Cornish hen, the juicy, sweet poultry accompanied by a good but overwrought harissa sauce. Fingerling potatoes are roasted with salsify, which chef Tony Barone transforms into a melting, nutty delight. A rich, creamy brûlée is served with a sidecar glass of soo jung gwa, a traditional Korean tea garnished with roasted pine nuts. The wine list offers unique non-LCBO bottles. Mains $16–$27.