Restaurants Guide › Italian

Terroni

Reviewed by Toronto Life
Editorial Review

You’ve got to love a menu where everything sounds good and then everything is good. Funghi Assoluti brings toasty oyster mushrooms baked with parmigiano on a bed of arugula and laced with balsamic vinegar and extra-virgin olive oil. The thin-crust pizzas ($12–$15) are among the city’s best. Daily specials entice: bucatini come richly but simply sauced with tomato, spice, pancetta and pecorino, but one evening’s baked lobster tail with saffron risotto falters—the lobster overcooked, the risotto dry. A semi calda salad is a hot, stewy mess of slow-cooked beans on bitter radicchio. Service is slow but the place is nice, so the wait doesn’t traumatize. Desserts, such as a delightful wedge of flourless Nutella cake, erase all sorrows.

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