Danny Grossman
How the modern dance guru, whose company performs at Harbourfront this month, would spend a single perfect day. Toronto on ... By Amy Verner
good
very good
excellent
extraordinary
perfect
It’s refreshing to visit a restaurant that forgoes the frippery of current dining trends. Unadorned surroundings—exposed brick and wood beams—complement the equally straightforward menu. Unlike other paint-by-numbers Italian joints on the College strip, this kitchen focuses on only a dozen or so familiar but lovingly executed dishes, most of which are comfort food classics. Pan-seared potato gnocchi may raise an eyebrow among purists, but these caramelized dumplings dazzle in a thick homemade tomato sauce. Proteins—artfully cooked salmon with a sauce more butter than lime, and a fork-tender lamb shank served in a sapid pool of jus—are strong points. Spicy notes hit the nose as soon as a slice of warm carrot cake hits the table. The brief wine list, outshone by a lounge-like roster of cocktails, is the one instance when de-cluttering harms the dining experience. Mains $16–$28.
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