Danny Grossman
How the modern dance guru, whose company performs at Harbourfront this month, would spend a single perfect day. Toronto on ... By Amy Verner
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Despite a recent reno, this one-time haunt of film fest celebs has a worn, dated feel. Widely spaced tables accentuate the almost eerie emptiness of the two large rooms, which should be full given the great location at Av and Bloor. The arrival of starters, however, revives spirits somewhat. Pan-seared crab cakes are two moist and flaky patties with ocean flavour and no discernible filler, but their spicy aïoli is one-dimensional. A brief grilling and a drizzle of fruity olive oil perk up calamari alla griglia, but it’s a tad chewy. Tagliatelle tosses perfectly al dente pasta with rich tomato sauce given depth by an earthy braise of lamb and mushrooms, though there’s not enough of either. Blackened halibut comes bronzed with more one-note spicing and a mushy interior. House-made desserts include apple-blueberry crumble featuring lukewarm, undercooked fruit (but blackberries, not blueberries) under a good buttery topping. The wine list contains no surprises but has a decent selection of house offerings. Keen, underworked wait staff. Mains $16–$46.
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