This dark, tiny and comfortable room delights with whimsical yet subtle attention to detail, such as ceiling halogens capped with red pepper– like glass fixtures, a centre table surrounded by blue leather armchairs, and a folded broadsheet-style menu. Chef Neil Siomra’s kitchen serves up—for the most part—equally charming contemporary Italian fare. Baked oyster mushrooms offer rich toasted parmesan and a drizzle of truffle oil and balsamic atop perfect baby arugula. Piquant tomato sauce holds eight exquisitely tender black tiger shrimp, cleverly crowned with a nest of crunchy frites, though a second sauce of basil purée on the plate lacks punch. Agnolotti envelop succulent sweet-potato filling but suffer badly from a watery and flavourless white wine, butter and herb sauce. Large pizzas boast a crispy, almost cracker-like crust. Bianca-style funghi e formaggi with oyster mushrooms, gorgonzola and goat cheese is heaped with arugula and swirls of prosciutto. Desserts excel, especially an ultra-sour, creamy caramelized lemon tart. Knowledgeable servers are able to work magic with a microscopic wine list. Mains $18–$22.