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RestaurantsItalian

Paese star½ [?]

Reviewed by Toronto LifeThere’s a warm, contemporary feeling at this revamped North York strip mall restaurant. Mains focus on pastas and pizzas, with proteins—perhaps scaloppine, lamb and salmon—listed as daily specials. Five succulent toasted garlic shrimp save a bowl of boring olive oil–dressed spaghetti. Hand-tossed pizzas set a new standard. A thin, crispy and chewy base holds everything from potato slices and truffle oil to Kristapsons’ smoked salmon. The dense, bittersweet chocolate marquise on a crackling cookie base is a true highlight. The comprehensive wine list features many by the glass. Doting servers. Mains $13–$32.

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