Though it may be a struggle to find the entrance—with its doorway tucked far down a side street—once inside Noce, the stress of daily life quickly dissipates. Owner Guido Saldini greets diners with a warm attentiveness that informs every second of the visit. Focused servers apply the perfect mix of formality and familiarity, bringing both depth of knowledge and natural affability. Giant botanical prints on the walls create an earthy feel, accentuated by dark wood fixtures and a richly buffed mahogany brown concrete floor. Ingredients are treated with thoughtful integrity and skill. Grilled radicchio, portobellos and shiitakes find their bitter, smoky flavours unified by a creamy drizzle of tangy, warm gorgonzola vinaigrette. Two giant sea scallops—just kissed by searing heat to perfect golden rareness—arrive on a long, slender plate, each mollusc resting on a disc of tender yellow beet. Supple shavings of foie gras in peppered extra-virgin and a swoosh of anise-infused red beet salsa complete this perfect dish. House-made pastas rate among the best in town, as supple ravioli, stuffed with shiitake, portobello and king oyster mushrooms, nestle in a sigh-inducing white-truffle butter. Meaty mains deliver equal delights. Tender braised veal cheeks, bathed in a rich chianti veal jus reduction, with salty diced pancetta and caramelized pearl onions, provide rib-sticking pleasure atop a mound of silky polenta. House-made desserts include luscious tiramisù and a not-too-sweet walnut and caramel tartlet. An enormous Wine Spectator award–winning wine list shows great depth in Italians and a multitude of grappas. Mains $17–$47.