Restaurants › Italian
Noce
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- 875 Queen St. W. (at Walnut Ave.) • View on map »
- 416-504-3463
- http://www.nocerestaurant.com/
The open kitchen sizzles, the party room roars with guffaws, and the ebullient owners, Guido Saldini and Elena Morelli, work Noce’s small room like a family reunion. The Wine Spectator award–winning cellar (nine years running) is a big draw, as regulars sacrifice their kids’ education for vintage supertuscans. A sinfully slick dish of spicy spaghetti aglio olio is topped with deep-fried zucchini and grated bottarga (dried muggine roe), which coats the noodles with pungent umami. Deboned quails are wrapped in guanciale, stuffed with figs and roasted to a crisp, mahogany sheen; the breast meat is a tad dry, but a bed of fregola sarda and woodsy porcini more than compensates. A moist olive oil and poached pear cake is served with a scoop of truffle honey gelato, a flavour so brilliant the pastry chef should take out a patent before Häagen-Dazs claims it. The service is first-class. Mains $15–$48.
875 Queen St. W. (at Walnut Ave.)
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