Clever renovations have solved the noise problem and given the revamped room a lavish look. Wealthy regulars in comfortable candlelit booths are flattered by pampering service and a visit from chef-co-owner Massimo Capra, who delights in preparing impromptu items not listed on the menu, such as a giant “carabinieri” shrimp, grilled until the shell is crunchy. His northern Italian menu ranges from a studiously executed fettuccine bolognese with richly textured ground veal to a chic modern take on vinegar-soused sardine fillets with sultanas, crisp shallots and endive chiffonade. Crispy panko-coated artichokes are irresistible when dipped into roasted eggplant–tomato aïoli. Rabbit is slow-cooked on the bone and bathed in a lightweight broth with slivers of zucchini, potato, cherry tomatoes and sliced green olives that push the dish’s saltiness a tad too far. Roasted branzino is delectably moist, the fish served with a ragoût of chickpeas, broccoli and fennel. Refined desserts shouldn’t be missed. The wine list shines a spotlight on Tuscany, Venetia and California. Mains $36–$42.