Restaurants GuideItalian

Marcello’s

Reviewed by Toronto Life
  • 1163 St. Clair Ave. W. (at Dufferin) View on map »
  • 416-656-6159
Editorial Review

The no-reservations policy ensures lengthy weekend queues at Corso Italia’s favourite pizza parlour, a long, dark room brightened with the tantalizing aroma of marinara sauce. Caprese salad brings bland tomatoes but high-quality bocconcini. The wood-burning oven yields crisp, chewy pizzas that get a textural boost from coarse semolina; a restrained hand with the toppings allows the superlative crust to hold its own. Traditional pastas also warrant attention: expertly done al dente linguine is paired with perfectly timed shrimp, scallops, mussels and squid; the sauce of tomato and garlic tastes as if it was made with care. Italy dominates the short, reasonably priced wine list. Friendly service.

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