Youthful and ever-present owners David Minicucci (Nectar, Xacutti) and Sam Kalogiros (Ultra Supper Club) have cast a casual yet energetic vibe in the former Arlequin spot—antique mirrors on dramatically lit brick walls, a communal high-top table—perfectly calibrated to woo the Av and Dav crowd. Fascinating bargains from Italy (plus 20 Niagaran wines) work well with chef Doug Neigel’s seasonal Italian dishes. A charcuterie plate repeats the international alliance, pairing luxe Italian prosciutto with Pingue’s Niagaran bresaola and silky cured muskox. Peppery red wine risotto is perfectly al dente, contrasting nicely with the rich jelly of pesto-spiked bone marrow. Fritto misto brings squid and shrimp, as well as tastier rapini, zucchini and artichoke—all battered and deep-fried and set beside a garlicky red pepper salsa. Tortelloni envelops rich forked osso buco, served in a salty and intense sage-flavoured broth. Alberta lamb shank is simply delectable, the moist, tender meat falling from the bone, its braising vege­tables reduced to a lightweight purée, the dish refreshed by a hank of finely julienne celeriac, fennel and horseradish. Moscato-poached pear dressed with zabaglione is typical of the simple but tempting dessert list. Friendly servers keep up with the demanding pace. Mains $16–$28.