The mirrors in the main dining room make people-watching an easy sport: the coiffed Av and Dav crowd never fails to pose and preen. The kitchen does its best to distract them with well-conceived, well-executed Italian food that plays with balance and contrast without ever overreaching. Salty, buttery, crunchy and soft, the much-heralded sardine crostini continues to wow; the incredible crab bruschetta furthers the trend, arriving hot, cold, sweet and bitter. The pasta is very good, particularly the occhi di lupo, which arrive bathed in a comforting veal shoulder ragù. With killer lemony semifreddo and a malty cookie, a tiramisù ice cream sandwich upends tradition (proof that the trend for po-mo treats has yet to ebb). The wine list offers interesting Italian choices by the glass—this is one of the rare spots where you can afford to drink Aglianico. Servers are attentive without becoming annoying. Mains $22–$35.