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Lil’ Baci star½ star good
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Reviewed by Toronto Life
  • 892 Queen St. E. (at Logan Ave.) View on map »
  • 416-465-4888
Editorial Review

Owner Leslie Ng has opened a sister for Kubo Radio next door. Behind steamed-up windows, the thrift shop decor is not without irony—couples can map their relationship at tables overlooked by mirrors, wedding photos and kindergarten art. Servers foster a merry mood, dispensing reasonably priced wines from a small Italian list. Scrumptious Neapolitan pizzas are the main event: crisp, thin, hand-thrown crusts are elegantly underburdened with primo ingredients. Antipasti might feature gorgeous prosciutto and salumi from Mario Pingue, along with fresh, straightforward options like fine canned tuna tossed with chickpeas, fluffy ricotta flecked with fresh basil, and roasted acorn squash served at room temperature. Honest pastas, such as soft gnocchi in lightweight spinach-lemon sauce and a ho-hum spaghetti bolognese, redirect attention to the pizza list. Desserts are brought in from a secret source: well-made cheesecakes, lemony torta della nonna and gelati are fabulous. The mood is unpretentious and simple. Mains $10–$20.

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