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RestaurantsItalian

Lil’ Baci star½ [?]

Reviewed by Toronto LifeThe framed kiddie paintings of pizzas on the walls are cute, and as if on cue, throngs of young Leslieville families, kiddies in tow, start pouring through the door come 7 p.m. (Arrive early to avoid a long wait, especially on weekends.) Decibels can reach shocking levels, but this ain’t no Old Spaghetti Factory. Behind an old storefront with stained glass, the room feels like junk-store chic meets Nonna’s kitchen, with mismatched chandeliers, gilt mirrors and family photos. Servers cajole like teasing cousins as they deliver generally excellent Southern Italian fare. A green salad of dandelion greens, arugula and buffalo mozzarella delights in its simplicity, refreshingly dressed in just lemon and extra-virgin. Roman-style pizzas, made with either traditional flour or a spelt-kamut blend, are beautifully crispy, though a briny specimen with capers, anchovies and olives suffers from dried—rather than fresh—oregano. Baked orecchiette in a peppery cream sauce with porcini and house-made pork-and-veal sausage merits a return trip. Divine cupcakes. Wines focus on affordable Italians under $50. Mains $10–$17.

  • map marker #1
    892 Queen St. E. (at Booth Ave.)
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