Lacklustre decor distracts from a menu of smartly executed non-regional Italian pastas, risottos and meat. Antipasti, such as vitello tonnato—dry, crumbly veal topped by a lush tuna sauce—mark the low point of an otherwise enjoyable feast. Pastas include a perfectly balanced gaeta: al dente spaghettini dressed with anchovies, olives and bitter rapini. A mushroom risotto suffers from slight overcooking. Proteins shine, from one even­ing’s juicy spigola, grilled whole, to succulent, rosy grilled rack of lamb in an acidic mint and red wine sauce. Berries buried under silky zabag­lione provide an elegant denouement. Ex­peri­enced servers coddle diners and recommend apt wine pairings from a largely Italian list. Mains $16–$40.