Danny Grossman
How the modern dance guru, whose company performs at Harbourfront this month, would spend a single perfect day. Toronto on ... By Amy Verner
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Attractively turned out in sage green, glass and dark hardwood floors, this Italian establishment offers a menu heavy on salads, seafood and pasta in a cozy courtyard location just off Yorkville’s main drag. The kitchen is competent, but not particularly ambitious, turning out food that’s good but falls short of the menu’s high-end prices. Petals of beef carpaccio liberally strewn with parmesan leave a positive first impression that fades slightly with a salad of perfectly cooked but tamely flavoured morsels of octopus and potato. Homemade gnocchi are light and luscious, dressed in a delightful mix of mushroom, roasted red pepper and asparagus. Mains include creamy seared calf’s liver and a grilled seafood plate of perfect shrimp marred by soggy red snapper skin and overcooked swordfish. A delicate ricotta tart that tastes of chocolate and marzipan redeems the kitchen somewhat. The service is formal; the wine list is surprisingly short, considering the upscale atmosphere. Mains $28–$40.
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