This worn-in neighbourhood mainstay could use some freshening up, but that doesn’t deter the St. Clair West crowd from wolfing down its near-perfect pizzas and bang-on pastas. With a mix of classic and creative flair, the concise menu holds many gems. Complimentary bruschetta brings thick chunks of crispy, slightly charred Italian loaf piled with sweet tomatoes, a touch of garlic and basil, and a healthy dose of extra-virgin. Minestrone soup could be eaten with a fork: generous pieces of al dente broccoli add crunch to the large garden-patch bowl of beans and tomato broth. Less successful, a monstrous pile of mixed greens topped with a steaming mound of caramelized sweet potatoes and tangy goat cheese starts off strong but fades with each bite—its soft texture and sweet flavour lack sufficient depth. A perfect nest of spaghetti carbonara, with light and eggy parmesan sauce and generous pieces of smoky pancetta, reveals the kitchen’s deft touch. Neapolitan pizza crusts—light, airy, chewy, soft and crispy-edged—get topped with such inspired combos as hot peppers, spicy capicollo, plump shrimp and crotonese cheese, though the practice of serving them on plates two sizes too small seems silly. To finish, expertly made espresso features amazing fresh crema. Casual, skilful service and a small but reasonable wine list. Pizzas $10–$18.