Chestnut floors, soft lighting, a wood-beamed ceiling and wrought iron details lend this rustic Italian eatery a cozy and unpretentious feel. The classic menu is infused with a mix-and-match of Mediterranean and heart-healthy influences that keep it interesting. Fluffy pieces of focaccia arrive with a dish of thick hummus; pizzas come on standard whole wheat bases; pastas can be whole wheat or regular. A pool of barley risotto holds a crisp braised lamb shank. Pieces of brightly coloured green and yellow beans and rendered pancetta add depth and texture to the firm rice, while a syrupy and intense red wine jus hits the right sinful note. It helps erase the memory of baby arugula salad topped with nicely spiced crunchy pecans, shredded pecorino and shaved fennel, sadly dressed in a watery citrus and olive oil vinaigrette. And despite a lively salsa of grilled pineapple, red grapes and pickled onion, a pair of meaty crab cakes lags in flavour. Thankfully, mezzalune stuffed with harvest-fresh butternut squash and served in a simple ricotta and butter sauce offers redemption; a touch of citrus and a sprinkling of fennel fronds illuminate it further. House-made desserts include crème brûlée, tiramisù and banana bread pudding. Efficient service could slow down a bit. The reasonably priced wine list is too short. Mains $10–$27.