Restaurants GuideItalian

Da Gianni e Maria star star good
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Reviewed by Toronto Life
  • 796 St. Clair Ave. W. (at Arlington Ave.) View on map »
  • 416-652-3982
Editorial Review

With Maria working the room and Gianni at the stoves, this is a genuine mom-and-pop trattoria. The huge menu features the rich cuisine of Piedmont: pasta is house-made, game abounds and cream flows like the Po River. Antipasti portions are huge (justification, perhaps, for the prices; apps range from $6 to $20). The artfully composed caprino salad balances both colour and flavour—with creamy goat cheese, juicy orange slices and spicy arugula topped with sun-dried olives. Porcini-scented fettuccine is bathed in a hearty sauce of boar and aromatic vegetables braised in red wine with a whiff of truffle. Ciambellone cake is freezer burnt but rescued by caramelized pineapple. An all-Italian wine list caters to every budget. Smooth service. Mains $12–$33.

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