A loyal following—mostly mature locals—reflects the competence of the kitchen and service at this neighbourhood spot. The room’s contemporary chic is offset by old-school Italian charm: vintage Italian pop hits and enlarged news photos of Fausto Coppi, a champion cyclist of the ’40s and ’50s and the restaurant’s namesake. Similarly, the menu of Italian comfort foods feels a little more Turin than Toronto. For example, five risotto variations are on offer, as are bianchetti, tiny white fish tossed with cherry tomatoes and shavings of zucchini in a starter of fresh fettuccine. The piquant sauce coating slices of veal piccata al limone shows an admirable Old World disregard for cholesterol, but a steamed seafood dish (clams, mussels, shrimp and octopus) tossed in olive oil with basil and potato is light. Save room for a pound cake zuccotto filled with chocolate-hazelnut semifreddo. The wine list rarely strays from Italy—it doesn’t need to. Servers tend to every detail with easy attentiveness. Mains $18–$38.