Restaurants › Italian
Coppi
- 3363 Yonge St. • View on map »
- 416-484-4464
- http://www.coppiristorante.com/
Coppi turns 20 this year, an anniversary that’s apparent in the servers’ outdated and ill-fitting uniforms. Similarly, the menu, which includes caesar salad and Citra as the house wine, caters to a crowd that was introduced to Italian food two decades ago and never looked back. Far better Italian restaurants exist in the city, but there’s comfort in Coppi’s conventions, such as the house antipasto, a tasty amalgamation of grilled and marinated vegetables, bresaola and smoked salmon. A server promises that the tagliatelle special tossed with rabbit ragù is made in the classic way: “Cooked slowly and without thickening agents, like flour.” It should have simmered even longer: the resulting sauce is thin, and its flavour lacks depth and concentration. But the frutti di mare—an unembellished secondo of perfectly prepared assorted seafood served simply with boiled potatoes and liberally laced with good quality olive oil and lemon—is so delectable that it erases any lingering memory of watery pasta. Desserts, like the super-sweet and creamy torta al limone covered in icing-sugared pine nuts, are a blast from the past. Service is efficient, though overly attentive. Mains $18–$34.
3363 Yonge St.
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