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RestaurantsItalian

Boccaccio

  • 901 Lawrence Ave. W. (at Dufferin) View on map »
  • 416-789-5555

Reviewed by Toronto LifeThis old-school ristorante and banquet facility is tucked into the prosaic Columbus Centre complex—fitness club, retirement home, cultural centre, apartments—in North York. With heavy wood tables, ornate urns and worn tapestries, it’s a bit like dining in a museum’s café, circa 1975. Nonetheless, this weird location is worth seeking out. At times the kitchen is overly restrained: a crunchy caesar salad is anchovy-less; slices of prosciutto and a ball of mozza­rella di bufala need oomph. Lobster tagliatelle brings al dente noodles dressed in a rich brandy-infused tomato-cream sauce—it’s tasty, even if the lobster is a little dry. Marsala-spiked zabaglione is a rare treat. The Italian-centric wine list offers only two reds and two whites by the glass, but there is a good selection by the bottle. Mains $12–$32.

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