Timeless chic and unabashed seduction meet in this airy below-street-level eatery. Polished dark woods, backlit glass cabinets and mirrors contribute glitz, while romance figures in the subdued pot and candle lighting and the upholstered high-backed chairs that enclose couples in pleasant intimacy. Veteran servers enjoy moments of playfulness and introduce a well-stocked, mostly Cal-Ital wine list that also has special vintage pages. The kitchen presses a cylinder of mild goat cheese under a cake of roasted beet and pear; slices of grilled fennel, sweetly oiled, add an exotic note. One even­ing’s exemplary grilled New Zealand calamari was paired with the yin of capers and cherry tomatoes, the yang of garlic confit, and a sweet roasted red pepper dressing. Veal piccata atop roasted vegetable purée boasts a finely mellowed lemon-butter sauce. Mains $16–$38.