Restaurants GuideItalian

Bar Mercurio star½ star good
star star very good
star star star excellent
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Reviewed by Toronto Life
  • 270 Bloor St. W. (at St. George) View on map »
  • 416-960-3877
Editorial Review

Profs, politicians and the occasional celeb hit this Annex mainstay for its welcoming staff and simple Italian bistro fare. Wood-fired pizzas ($10–$18) are excellent, one particularly fine rendition combining double-smoked bacon, sliced portobellos, asiago chunks and a drizzle of truffle oil on a cracker-thin crust. A salad of Boston leaves, torn pieces of buffalo mozzarella, and a roasted red pepper aïoli isn’t as harmonious on the plate as on paper, but the crackling-skinned half-capon is inspirational, shiny under its sweet honey glaze and deboned for easy eating. Well-seasoned frites sit upright in a whimsical doily cone, accompanied by chipotle aïoli. Beef tenderloin medallion stuffed with succulent crab is a winner. The ample wine list will win over even the most postured oenophile. Mains $10–$23.

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