Selections at this unpretentious, terra cotta–walled trattoria lean toward the traditional: penne alla vodka, spaghettini bolognese, quattro formaggi pizza and veal scaloppine. But the regulars—local Gay Villagers, families, 30-somethings—don't seem to mind. Margherita pizza tops crusts with tomatoes, bocconcini and basil—a popular choice for patrons and their wee ones, who order without even a perfunctory glance at the menu. Mains $16–$21.