Reminiscent of a medieval schnitzel house, the room’s dark wood beams, plaster walls, wrought iron chandeliers and open hearth (or fogolàr) create the feel of a traditional private club—the ideal spot to celebrate a 50th wedding anniversary or have a family supper. Such classic northern Italian fare as grilled polenta, calamari and salt cod are modernized and artfully presented, though unevenly executed. The amazing pappar­delle comes with pieces of succulent roast pheasant and softened cherry tomatoes tossed in a simple rosé sauce that lets the zingy tomato and rosemary flavours shine. Four giant shrimp arrive perfectly butterflied and grilled, but the accompanying veggies (same for all mains) sport a bland parsley pesto that shows the kitchen’s limitations. For dessert, a crispy fried crostoli is devoured alongside a light, boozy tiramisù. A decent wine list and attentive service. Mains $28–$37.