Venetian kitsch—glass baubles and gurgling fountains—creates a carnival atmosphere as tourists and suits dine on chef Robert Buchanan’s Mediterranean menu, which offers more delights than duds. A crispy sweetbread dish turns out to be offal’s answer to popcorn shrimp. Served with creamy tarragon dipping mayo, the battered and deep-fried bites are addictive but seem more like bar snacks than a fully realized appetizer. Mains deliver numerous sea creatures, such as a perfectly seared and seasoned sea bream served with poached fennel and grapefruit wedges in an unlikely broth of prune consommé and coffee oil. The sour, sweet and savoury elements complement the meaty fish. A luscious 16-ounce veal chop, seared to mahogany, receives too much support from over-salted olive polenta, crispy cumin onions and a delectable jus reduction. Desserts deliver an excellent chocolate-orange crème brûlée. Service is formal but lively. The wine list shows strong international selections in all price ranges. Mains $26–$38.