Bay Street types crowd the bar for post-deal drinks before heading to the dining room—a dim fabric-draped pod that hovers above the hustle and bustle of the atrium below. In contrast to the high-spirited vibe, the starters disappoint: scallops wrapped in house-smoked bacon are merely good, while delectable, paprika-spiked pork rillettes suffer from being smothered by a too-thick layer of fat. However, the path to culinary redemption is strewn with butternut squash gnocchi, paired with brown butter and Swiss chard, their delicate texture playing off the crunch of pine nuts. A massive serving of seared-on-the-outside, sashimi-on-the-inside tuna loin balances beautifully with the almost candy-like acid notes of preserved lemon and a crisp bacon-and-potato cake. Unfortunately, grainy curd humbles an elegant lemon tart, but a scoop of coffee gelato perfectly complements a scrumptious apple spice cake. The wine list is strong in southern Italians and caters to most tastes and budgets. Mains $20–$54.