The artsy feel of this former gallery space, now the latest hot spot from restaurateur-of-the- moment Hanif Harji, fits the trend of gentrification sweeping through bohemian Parkdale. The remarkable interior of Nyood (hokily pronounced “nude”) features a towering library of white-painted books, suspended black cables with tentacles tipped with lamps and a faux birchbark wall textured with staples. Where the room is refined, however, the service is not; every passing apron or suit finds reason to interrupt. Thankfully, some of those interruptions bring delights from chef Roger Mooking’s menu, which offers some 20 tapas-style dishes showing primarily pan-Mediterranean and Asian influences. Olive oil–cured beef tenderloin, seared to rare, cooled and sliced thin, arrives in a ruby fan on a chopping block. Though it’s gorgeously tender and well complemented by grilled radicchio and fennel-mint compote, the beef desperately needs a sprinkling of sea salt. The hit of the meal is a roasted roulade of pork tenderloin stuffed with sour cherries and wrapped in prosciutto. The simple flavours in this divine dish ring like perfect notes in the mouth—sour, salty, seared and sweet. Competent desserts—a chocolate soufflé and crème brûlée—are predictable. Drinks feature exotic teas, champagne cocktails and a smallish wine list that starts at $40 and features many by the glass. Small plates $9–$18.