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RestaurantsInternational

Mildred’s Temple Kitchen starstar½ [?]

Reviewed by Toronto LifeThe long-awaited follow-up to Parkdale’s beloved Mildred Pierce—a soaring concrete space within sight of the old location—is a restaurant of a very different mood. Warm whimsy has been replaced by a polite, proper coolness appropriate for these judicious times. Servers explain the virtues of house-carbonated water and pour wine from an international list that’s tailored to chef-owner Donna Dooher’s precise, global creations. Golf ball–size fritters of smoked Georgian Bay whitefish paddle in a classic rémoulade of chopped gherkin and egg, garnished with pickled spruce tips. Biryani is deconstructed with rice, dried fruit and onion sauce, topped with a perfectly cooked chicken breast. Wisely, Dooher has reprised her ice cream–filled profiteroles—a comforting dessert that reminds MP devotees of more ostentatious times. Mains $16–$26.

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