There is no sign out front, but the King East condo crowd is drawn like a moth to the purple light emanating from the bar. The Georgian building has been transformed into three floors of exposed brick, gleaming wood and supple leather. Opening chef and part-owner Roger Mooking has moved on, leaving chef Ryan Kowalyk in charge; Kowalyk’s upmarket tapas bounce all over the globe, but the flavours remain tightly focused. Duelling Tartare finds Asian-inspired tuna edging dilled Scandinavian salmon by a nose; panko-crusted, deep-fried, runny-yolked quail eggs and plantain chips are memorable accoutrements. Like an empanada from the gods, a delicate mushroom turnover is perfumed with white truffle oil, and paired with salty manchego and cherry tomato compote. Italy and Jamaica sing in perfect harmony with a juicy jerk chicken thigh fanned over rich coconut risotto. Desserts drop the baton. Service is highlighted by sommelier Kim Cyr, who oversees 50-plus wines by the glass, including a good sel­ection from Niagara. Small plates $4–$22.