Zigzagging banquettes line the walls of this small, grotto-like room, which feels decadent with its deep blue walls and gauzy curtains. Service begins smoothly, with thyme-accented hummus and soft coconut bread, but the gracious patina soon gives way to an almost frenetic vibe. When not busy confusing tables, servers work forcefully to up-sell from a wine list that, albeit superb, lingers largely in the $80 to $140 range. Still, apps arrive in good time. Two huge sea scallops are nicely seared to rare. In mains, a masterful but excessive hand is apparent, leading to oversized plates that overwhelm with competing flavours. Gorgeous beef tenderloin brings smoky, molasses-like Nyonyan seasoning on a sumptuous ginger demi-glace, but tandoori on an accompanying strip of foie gras is lost in the mix. A pakora of curried potato is nicely piquant, but its accompanying vegetables are in a goopy, sweet sauce that confuses the palate. Ironically, vidal icewine ice cream lacks flavour. Mains $34–$45.