A destination for owner-chef Tom Thai’s College Street fans (still pining for Tempo) as well as local gourmands, the cozy little room single-handedly raised Ossington’s culinary bar when it opened in 2007. The homespun, open-brick decor is charming; a no-reservations policy means there’s often a crowd by the door. Thai’s cuisine is his own take on pan-Asian, with appetizer-sized dishes (almost all of them under $15) offering fresh, intense flavours. Thai’s Vietnamese roots are apparent in such dishes as spring rolls of soft rice wrappers stretched around grilled portobellos, lettuce and fresh herbs. One of several ceviches is a tour de force, with chunks of sweet marlin, chopped herbs and cucumber and a super-tangy marinade that balances sweetness, acid and chili heat. A sticky caramelized shallot glaze is almost too flavourful, threatening to camouflage the taste of tender side ribs. A crème brûlée made with black sesame paste and topped with fresh mango is a dramatic finish. The wine list suits the food, with aromatic whites and plenty by the glass. Mains $17–$22.