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RestaurantsIndian and Sri Lankan

Trimurti

Reviewed by Toronto LifeAt first, Trimurti seems strictly standard for the quartet of Indian restaurants dotting this stretch of Queen West, all offering cheap and cheerful North Indian standards and lunchtime buffets. An attentive waiter brings a Kingfisher while Bollywood muzak plays softly, amid the soft conversation of families and couples out for a quick dinner. Everything seems par for the course. Then a sizzling platter of chicken arrives moist, flavourful and enticingly red—that’s when you realize someone in the kitchen clearly knows how to use the tandoor. This is what distinguishes Trimurti. The same skill is evident in fluffy garlic kulcha bread—double servings may be required. Vegetarians are well served, with many dishes to choose from, including credible paneer, dhal and chana masala. A standout is the deep roasted flavour of eggplant in baigan kabarta, here mixed with green peas as well as tomato, which will make an eggplant lover of anyone. Sickly sweet navratan korma, a boring mix of cashews, frozen peas, carrots and corn, is the lone disappointment. Desserts are sparse; opt for chai instead. Mains $7–$13.

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