Johnson Yohannan is a consummate traveller and daring entrepreneur—he was part of the team that introduced Pizza Hut to India. In his latest venture, he takes cultural exchange in a tastier direction, offering sophisticated northern Indian fare at Yonge and Eg. The mood here is welcoming: chefs readying yogurt-coated chicken for the tandoor greet customers from the gleaming open kitchen. Light vegetable pakoras, fried to a deep golden brown, arrive on a cumin-scented tomato concassé that might inspire plate-licking in the uninhibited. Luscious chicken tikka masala, dressed in a subtly sweet tomato curry sauce, is made rustic with chunks of onion and green pepper. The spicing here is impeccably balanced— flavour before fire. House-made pistachio almond kulfi, gulab jamun, and strong, fennel-scented chai are sweet, creamy finishes. A broad drinks list includes several VQAs by the glass, Nickel Brook Organic lager on tap, Grey Goose martinis and, of course, traditional lassis. Here, “modern Indian” is a commitment to modern ideals—quality ingredients and thoughtful execution of classics—not an experiment in precious presentation, tiny portions or bizarre pairings. Mains $10–$24.