The ornate room is starting to feel a touch too starched—slightly generic, even—especially as the city’s other top hotels (The Hazelton and The Drake, for example) work to integrate their dining rooms into the life of the city around them. But Truffles’ food needs no tweaking—classic dishes are elevated just enough to make them extraordinary. The signature truffle spaghettini is one of Toronto’s most luxurious dishes. Uncommonly rich, thick semolina noodles just kissed with cream, black truffle oil and sliced black truffles are surrounded by a very tasty cumulus of truffle foam. The kitchen really shows off with mains, making salt cod, that old subsistence staple, into something magical: obscenely moist, deeply flavoured and seared to a golden crisp, it arrives on a clam chowder sauce. Rack of lamb and beef tenderloin both put most other high-end rooms’ renditions to shame: the lamb is gloriously fatty, vividly flavoured and bone-sucking good, while the tenderloin arrives with excellent mashed potatoes, a brandy-braised cipollini and a dollop of onion ice cream. Wine service, courtesy of bottle whiz Sara D’Amato, is outstanding. Charmingly old-school service. Mains $40–$50.