Flickering, so-of-the-moment carbon filament fixtures illuminate an enormous Rorschach test pattern on a side wall. The tables are black and slick, and the hubbub from the hotel bar—blue-chippers, artists and would-be celebrities, plus a waif covering early Radiohead in a crystalline voice—is just loud enough that diners can feel a part of several scenes at once. Chef Anthony Rose’s kitchen manages to balance all that coolness with a smart, sophisticated approach to food and drink. Seasonal menus feature both superb comfort dishes (southern-fried chicken, good mac and cheese touched with fresh dill) and comfortable pricing (witness the daily blue plate specials), plus a well-sourced selection of high-end and heirloom ingredients, including Iowa’s sublime prosciutto Americano and dry-aged Ontario rib-eyes. From a fall menu, a salad of braised then roasted pork belly with crunchy sautéed oyster mushrooms, sharp arugula, buttery croutons and a three-minute egg starts things off beautifully. Rose tops a 60-day dry-aged, grass-fed strip loin from Kerr Farms (good flavour and unquestionable karma, but a touch tough; the skirt or rib steak from Cumbrae’s is a better option) with an intense, caper-kissed gremolata; seared pickerel has had a tad too much time in the pan. Sides are standouts; $22 buys a platter of four, including brussels sprouts sautéed in butter, and baked beans with applesauce that bring smoke, zip and perfect firepit flavour. Sticky toffee pudding makes an orgasmic dessert. Friendly service. More than two dozen wines by the glass, though few for less than $10; the main list won’t disappoint most tastes or budgets. The outstanding cocktail menu is one of the city’s best. Mains $20–$40.