Even though Ossington has stolen much of West Queen West’s thunder, this hip hotel dining room is still a big draw, especially for 30-somethings fuelling up for a night at the ironic saloons. After six years, the cowhide Rorschach walls and funky carpeting have passed their expiration date; the dark, windowless room could use brightening up. Chef Anthony Rose is the king of comfort foods—10 years spent working in the States has given his cooking a democratic decadence. His fun menu has so many lily-gilding dishes that your heart may start fibrillating before dessert. Fried calamari is light, tender and crisp, but what lies underneath promotes this dish from cliché to knockout: peppery rocket, chili-zinged chickpeas and thick, tangy tzatziki. The slight dryness of house-smoked ribs is more than compensated for by a satisfying side of gooey mac-and-cheese studded with peas. Wines by the bottle are more interesting than those by the glass; the list of retro cocktails deserves a second glance. Black-clad servers are more than just pretty faces. Mains $11–$36.