Beige and gold bring warmth and opulence to this steak house, but the long, narrow space still feels crowded with tables. Chef Stephen Ricci brings beef lore learned at Prego Della Piazza to the menu; a 20-ounce Alberta rib-eye is admirably cooked, barely seasoned and crusted from an 1,800-degree broiler. The rest of the menu is hit-or-miss. A creamy clam chowder, impeccably textured with celery and potatoes, is served with oyster crackers. Deep-frying a battered oyster and serving it on a spoonful of tarragon-scented lobster béarnaise sounds great, but the oyster vanishes in the crunchy batter. Dense gnocchi in a parmesan cream sauce are as heavy as clay. Oversized desserts include banana split and apple crumble. An impressive list of bordeaux forms the heart of a pricey wine list. Mains $28–$125.