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RestaurantsHotel

One starstarstar [?]

Reviewed by Toronto LifeAn A-lister and her entourage may be only a few Balenciaga bags away on One’s sidewalk patio at the swanky Hazelton, where Mark McEwan continues to raise the bar on hotel food. The menu is simpler than those of his other two restaurants, but it stays true to his unique brand of indulgence. Moist kampachi steps in for trout in an almandine-style preparation with browned butter, truffle vinaigrette and the balancing sharpness of citrus foam. Desserts celebrate seasonal fruits, in a warm apricot clafoutis paired with toasted almond ice cream, for example. The wine list gives a platinum card tour of France and California, though terrific house wines respect the budget-minded tippler. Service is first rate. Mains $26–$65.

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