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108 Chestnut St. (at Dundas St. W.), Metropolitan Hotel • View on map »
416-977-9899

Editorial Review

This reserved room, decked out in cool beige and formal white linen, still offers downtown’s finest Chinese dining experience. Chef Ken Tam’s haute Cantonese cooking, boosted by robust regional dishes, is technically impeccable, though flavours fall within a narrow, subtle spectrum. Perfectly roasted suckling pig is carved into lean, tender strips (each with its delicately crisp lacquered skin) and paired with soft shredded jellyfish and a slick of sesame oil. Chopped oysters and eggplant are texturally indistinguishable inside a pan-fried omelette—a demure version of the hearty Chiu Chow favourite. The wine list is usefully weighted toward aromatic whites. Servers are self-assured. Mains $18–$30.

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