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RestaurantsHotel

Lai Wah Heen

Reviewed by Toronto LifeThis reserved room, decked out in cool beige and formal white linen, still offers downtown’s finest Chinese dining experience. Chef Sam Ma’s haute Cantonese cooking, boosted by robust regional dishes made according to season, is technically impeccable, though flavours fall within a narrow, subtle spectrum. Perfectly roasted suckling pig is carved into lean, tender strips (each with its delicately crisp lacquered skin) and paired with soft shredded jellyfish and a slick of sesame oil. Juicy soy-marinated chicken is smoked with tea leaves, creating a fine perfume enhanced by minced ginger dressing. Sturdy French pastries from Senses are an alternative to sweet red bean soup or little marshmallow rabbits rolled in coconut—a reminder that the city’s best dim sum is served here at lunchtime. The wine list is weighted toward aromatic whites. Servers are self-assured. Mains $18–$30.

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