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Reviewed by Toronto Life
  • 110 Chestnut St. (at Dundas St. W.), Metropolitan Hotel • View on map »
  • 416-599-8000
Editorial Review

Everything befitting an elegant hotel restaurant is here: grand decor (orchids on the tables, walls displayed with large works of art), a hushed yet pleasant atmosphere (with benignly hovering wait staff) and a confident, well-executed menu that offers familiar dishes with a few hints of innovation. A simple green salad turns into something distinctive when Cookstown greens arrive in a (too crunchy) parmesan cup with truffle- citrus vinaigrette. Likewise, entrées introduce a well-executed maple-smoked pork rib-eye. Chicken (perfectly cooked pieces of breast and thigh) gets upgraded with a sticky-sweet bourbon gravy and sweet potato-parsnip mash. Desserts flounder a bit—a trio of crème brûlées is undercooked and overly sweetened. Mains $25–$35.

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