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Reviewed by Toronto Life
  • 18 St. Thomas St. (at Bloor St. W.), Windsor Arms Hotel View on map »
  • 416-971-9666
Editorial Review

Stroll along swanky Bloor Street, hit Williams-Sonoma, turn south at Cole Haan and stop at the flags. Built in 1927 and fully rebuilt in ’99, the ancient-looking Windsor Arms serves up a dining experience (when not hosting upscale weddings) that rivals Toronto’s best. Dozens of lanterns make soaring ceilings and limestone walls glow in a majestic room of diners quietly enveloped in art deco–ish leather chairs. Dishes, presented on spare Zen plates, are works of art. Appetizers only tease the palate: paper-thin cured Quebec duck, delicate beside a fluff of dandelion, baby arugula and fresh orange chunks; fried, velvety vanilla-infused goat cheese sweetly steadies the salt in accompanying olive-tomato tapenade. Equally stellar entrées come in generous portions. Inch-thick filet mignon ringed by fingerling potatoes and porcini mushrooms is bathed in tart gravy. Surf and turf means twin Maine lobster tails and seared scallops paired with a beef cheek ravioli square. A four-cake sampler combines fine miniatures of strawberry shortcake, dark fudge, chocolate mousse and crunchy pistachio. Wine lovers should find a favourite or two on the 2007 Wine Spectator award–winning list—starting at $36 and reaching back to a 1918 Château Mouton Rothschild ($14,000). Mains $21–$48.

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