David Chrystian’s menus read beautifully, stacked with Canadiana yet clearly internationalist, modern but still refined, and his cooking shows a maturity that makes this glamorous downtown room a worthwhile destination. One evening’s opener, called heirloom tomato composition, brings delectably runny ruby slices and halved little yellow flavour bombs, all layered with pan-crisped wild striped bass and a whole tempura anchovy—a sublime balance of acid, sweet, salt and fat that’s accented with a deep-fried basil leaf. Another meal’s baked black cod, marinated in Prince Edward County cider, miso and maple sugar, presents beautifully, the cod caramelized and flaky, perched on a bed of roasted organic Cookstown veg. Not everything here is ideal: a generous portion of citrus-cured hiramasa sashimi gets lost on a plate that’s crowded with cucumber, coleslaw, basil purée, a fried basil leaf and (delectable) cloudberry sauce. But the hits—a dense carrot cake, perhaps, peppered with chopped walnuts and topped with caramelized pineapple and house vanilla ice cream—easily outweigh the occasional misses. Sommelier and manager Mark Moffatt’s Wine Spectator–endorsed list is stocked with treasures. Servers range from excellent to slightly green, but all work the room with aplomb. Mains $22–$36.