Airy, bright and comfortable, this atrium eatery breaks out of the hotel-restaurant mould. Chef Jonaton Lome sources and transforms a fine local bounty. Accordingly, tasting menus reflect the season—on “game” night, a dice of earthy chioggia beets is paired with pistachios, sugary slivers of corn seedlings, and a tumble of lamb’s lettuce bedecked with a parcel of deep-fried Ontario goat cheese, its creamy, warm interior enveloped in a crunchy carapace. A marine special might be five ribbons of yellowfin tuna, lightly seared, the thin line of crust sparkling from a splash of fleur de sel and green peppercorn. Also on the seasonal game menu are perfectly executed loin chops of Huron County lamb with gorgonzola-spiked polenta cakes. For dessert, a house rhubarb tart is a sensation of buttery pastry and crème fraîche. Floor staff are wine savvy. Mains $17–$48.